Edward Enninful on Modern Britain: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Compared to the Nineties.

An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 transformed the path of a teenage Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the London's buzzing 1990s cultural landscape, evolving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of the iconic i-D.

"That era was the zenith of the Britart scene – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I understood we’d be close. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that energy."

Although Enninful appears sentimental, he is far from alone. Recently, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has become pervasive. Yet since that time, Enninful feels a profound shift. "I believe, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he says. "This isn't just this country – it’s everywhere."

Shifting Attitudes

This regression is increasingly evident: the rise of far-right politics, the pushback against progressive values, and the reassertion of traditional beauty standards. In place of the optimism of the previous decade, now a more divisive political personality looms as a possible leader. Furthermore, the Union Jack, once an badge of national pride, has become contentious again.

For Enninful, the response has long been to promote culture in all its variety. This was the core philosophy behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, showcasing a diverse array of influential figures from literature.

"People with a voice should wield it," he asserts, explaining those editorial decisions. "People often debate about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain was not a lenient country, if it hadn't given my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I always loved. I believe this period will pass."

The Younger Generation's Awareness

He draws solace in the younger generation: "They are far more conscious than we were. They discuss implicit prejudice – I had no concept what that was."

Those early experiences would shape a trailblazing career marked by fearlessness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first man, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His tenure featured historic front pages showcasing people of diverse backgrounds, curvy models, an octogenarian, and people from varied communities. Significantly, sales grew.

"To overlook huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s bad for business," he states.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has established his creative company EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since leaving his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "innovator".

"I constantly interrogate the status quo. I was raised in a place where the majority was Black – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we arrived in England, penniless, and I found myself on the margins. I was painfully reserved. My teachers said I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a unique perspective between worlds."

Contrary to the caricature of industry figures as brash and temperamental, Enninful is calm and projects peace. His life has included its share of challenges, including well-documented struggles with depression and substance use.

He has also undergone significant health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, now leaving him with impaired eyesight. "I was in such a time of fear for two years, not working, fearing I was going to lose my sight. It’s similar to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I vowed, if this ever is over, I’m just going to do everything that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

Curating a Cultural Era

This refusal to fit into a box has inspired him beyond the world that built his career. He is now curating a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a roster of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to explore the decade's creative cross-pollination – and spotlight those who weren't given adequate attention at the time.

"Institutions often failed to shine a light on the truly innovative creators because they weren't of the expected background," he states.

The magazine 72 itself operates on a unique approach, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "Our approach is, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an experience, a series? The magazine is part of a greater ecosystem."

An Unstoppable Drive

Today, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His story, he states, is a proof to the power of following your instincts.

What would the Edward of the 90s make of the Edward of today? He smiles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be proud. At that time I was sceptical of institutions. I didn't think institutions like Tate were necessarily for me."

He adds. "Gratitude is key. We were displaced, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have doubted me my whole career. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve decided to do something."